Primatech Installation Tips
Installation over concrete
HANDLING
Hardwood is a living substance which reacts to changes in
relative humidity. Wood gains and loses moisture before and after installation,
as surrounding conditions fluctuate. Indeed, wood expands in the summer
when humidity level is high and contracts in the winter when the humidity
level is much lower. To minimize the expansion or contraction of your
hardwood floor, it is recommended that the building should be well ventilated
and the relative humidity level maintained at 45% all year long. Before
you begin, plastering and cement work must be completely dry. It is
strongly recommended that the wood be left to acclimatize at house temperature
for a period of at least 24 hours at the ideal relative humidity level
which is 45%.
TEST CONCRETE SLABS FOR EXCESS MOISTURE
Rubber Mat Method (Useful Only On Light-Colored Concrete)
Lay a flat, non-corrugated rubber mat on the slab. Place
a weight on top to prevent moisture from escaping and allow the mat
to remain 24 hours; if the covered area shows dark, wet marks, too
much moisture is present.
Polyethylene film method
Tape a 12" (30cm) square of clear polyethylene film
to the slab with plastic moisture-resistant tape, sealing all four
edges. If no condensation collects under the film after 24 hours,
the slab is dry enough for floor installation.
Make tests in several areas of each room. When test indicates excess
moisture, wait for the slab to dry naturally or accelerate drying with
heat and ventilation, then test again before installing floors.
INSTALLATION METHODS ON SLABS
Plywood on slab
Begin by covering the slab with a vapor retarder of either
asphalt felt, building paper or polyethylene:
Asphalt felt or building
paper - First, prime the slab and apply cold, cut-back asphalt mastic
with a notched trowel at the rate of 50 sq. ft. per gallon (l m2
per liter). Allow to set for two hours. Unroll 15 lb (6.8 kg)
asphalt felt or building paper, lapping the edges 4" (10 cm)
and butting the ends. Over this, apply a second similar coating of
mastic and roll out a second layer of asphalt felt or paper in the
same direction as the first, staggering the overlaps to achieve an
even thickness.
Polyethylene - When the slab is well above grade and the expected
annual rainfall is light to moderate, cover the entire slab with
4-6 mil polyethylene film, overlapping the edges 4-6" (10
to 15 cm), and allowing enough film to extend under the baseboard
on all sides. When moisture conditions are more severe, prime the
slab and apply cold, cut-back mastic with a straightedge or fine-tooth
trowel (100 sq.ft. per gallon) (2 m2 per liter). Allow
to dry for at least 90 minutes. Unroll 4-6 mil polyethylene
film over the slab, overlapping the edges 4-6" (10-15 cm).
In either cases, roll the film flat or "walk" it in,
stepping on every square centimeter to insure proper adhesion. Puncture
bubbles to release trapped air.
 Install the plywood after the vapor barrier is in place. Loosely
lay a nailing surface of 3/4" x 4" x 8" (19mm x 1.22m
x 2.44m) exterior plywood panels over the entire area, leaving a 3/4" (19mm)
space at the wall line and 1/4"-1/2" (6-12mm) between panels.
Cut plywood to fit within 1/8" (3mm) near doorjambs and other
obstructions where finish trim will not be used. Lay plywood diagonally
across the direction of the finished floor to help prevent cracks
along panel edges.
Fasten plywood to the slab with power-actuated fasteners, securing
the center of the panel first, the edges, using nine or more nails.
Do not use power-actuated fasteners or concrete nails when radiant
heat pipes are imbedded in the slab. Instead, cut the ply- wood into
4' x 4' (1.22m by 1.22m) squares, score the backs 5/8" (16 mm)
deep on a 12" x 12" (30cm x 30cm) grid, and lay the panel
in cut-back mastic applied with a 1/4" x 1/4" (6mm x 6mm)
notched trowel. (35 sq.ft. per gallon) (0.7 m2 per liter).
Screeds System (sleepers)
 Flat, dry, preservative-treated 2" x 4" (5cm x
10cm) screeds in random lengths from 18" to 48" (0.5-1.2 m)
can also serve as a subfloor. Begin by sweeping the slab clean, applying
an asphalt primer and allow to dry. Apply hot (poured) or cold (cut-back)
asphalt mastic and imbed the screeds. Stagger joints and lap ends at
least 4" (10cm) and leave a 1/2" (12mm) space between lapped
edges. Be sure there is enough mastic for 100% contact between screeds
and slab. Leave a space of 3/4" (19mm) between ends of screeds
and walls with a continuous run of screeds at end walls. Before installing
the floor, loosely lay an additional vapor retarder of 4-6 mil polyethylene
film over the screeds, overlapping the edges on top of the 2 x 4s.
Avoid bunching or puncturing the film, especially between the screeds.
Nail the finished flooring to the screeds through the film.
PREPARATION
For new construction or renovations:
- Be sure to maintain occupancy-level temperature and humidity for
at least five days. The house must be heated at 22º.
- Using a hygrometer, verify the subfloor (plywood) humidity level;
it must not exceed 12%. If the humidity level is too high, turn up
the heat and open the basement windows 1/2" (1.25 cm).
- Remove baseboards and door sills.
- Screw the subfloor securely and if necessary, install a double
layer of 15 lb (6kg) or a single layer of 30 lb (14kg)
asphalt felt or building paper.
- Using a handsaw, slit the bottom of the door-frames 3/4" (2cm)
in order to slide a hardwood plank beneath the door.
TOOLS AND MATERIAL REQUIRED
- Hardwood floor nailer (with rubber mallet)
- Electric drill and bits
- Tenon-saw, circular saw or handsaw
- Claw hammer and nail punch
- Measuring tape
- Chalk line
STEP BY STEP INSTALLATION
 Using the chalk line, draw a line parallel to 3/4" (19 mm)
larger than the planks width. Never nail closer than 3" (75 mm)
towards the end of the plank. - Select the planks, then lay them out on the floor in the general
pattern in which they will be installed. The straightest planks should
be used for the first and second rows.
- Always select your planks with care. Those with flaws must be recut.
- Lay the tongue edge of the plank on the guideline, leaving a 3/4" (19mm)
space between the groove edge and the starting wall. This expansion
space will allow the wood to expand if necessary.
- The first row must be secured to the floor using screw shank flooring
nails. Drill holes on the surface of the planks at 1" (2.5cm)
from the edge approximately 12" (30cm) apart. Next, secure using
a claw hammer and punch.
- Measure and cut a plank the required length to finish the first
row. As the remaining section will be used to start the second row,
the plank selected for the first row must be long enough to yield
a remaining section of adequate length. Leave a 3/4" (19mm) space
between the wall and the plank in each row.
- Start the second row with a plank of at least 6" (15cm) shorter
or longer than the plank used in the first row; this will avoid aligning
the joints. Set the plank in place, drill a hole on the tongue edge
at a 45º angle, then nail at every 8" (20cm) or 10" (25cm).
- The subsequent rows must be installed in the same manner, but using
a hardwood floor nailer. Try a few hammering tests on a piece of scrap
wood to determine the pressure needed to properly drive nail.
- For best appearance, leave enough distance between the joints by
alternating with planks of different lengths to avoid aligning joints.
- The last four or five rows must be installed in the same manner
as the first two rows. The use of the hardwood floor nailer is impossible
since the last rows are too close to the wall.
- Conceal the nail holes using a special wax.
- Finish trim is nailed only to the wall and never on the planks.
MAINTENANCE & PREVENTION TIPS
Although your prefinished hardwood floor offers high durability
and easy maintenance, it is not indestructible. In order to maintain
and preserve the beauty of your floor, the following are tips which
should save you time and worry:
- Regularly sweep or vacuum the floor to prevent sand or abrasive
dust from accumulating and scratching the finish.
- Use manufacturers specialized maintenance products for safe, quick
and easy maintenance of your hardwood flooring.
- Place doormats outside and rugs inside at every entrance to prevent
sand or abrasive dust from accumulating.
- Place a rug in front of the dishwasher and the kitchen sink to
protect the floor from water, oily detergent spills and fallen objects.
- Use protectors under all narrow casters or replace them with wider
rubber casters. Avoid plastic casters.
- Protect the floor when moving heavy pieces of furniture. Carry
them or place them on a rug, wrong side up, and slide the rug. Refrigerators
should never be moved without adequate floor protection.
- The relative humidity level in your home must be maintained at
45% (40-50 ~ throughout the year. Problems related to humidity level
variation can be minimized by proper ventilation, dehumidifying or
heating.
THINGS TO AVOID
- Do not pour any floor cleaner directly on floor.
- Never allow any
liquid to remain on floor.
- Avoid dripping mops which leave excess water
on floor. Some manufacturers recommend cleaning hardwood floors with
a mop rinsed in a water and vinegar solution. This is acceptable so
long as the mop is squeezed dry beforehand.
- Never use wax, oil-based detergent or any household cleaners. These
may dull or damage the finish, leaving a greasy film, making the floor
slippery and more difficult to clean.
When nailing to a subfloor seated on concrete, it is important
to choose a cleat that will not reach the concrete. This is achieved
by using a shorter cleat or tilting the nailer to increase the angle
of penetration.
- The nailer model Q500 can take 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" (32 & 38mm)
18-GA cleats. It can operate at a 50° angle only.
- Manual nailers models H300 & H330 or pneumatic nailers model
P210 & P240 can take either L-type (2", 1-3/4" or 1-1/2")
(38, 45 & 50mm) or T-type cleats (2" or 1-1/2") (38 & 50mm)
. They nail at a constant 45° angle; or can be used at 54° with
an optional adapter kit.
- To fix 33/32" (26mm) boards with P210, P240, H300 and
H330 nailers, remove the plastic base to apply a self adhesive Teflon
base P-986
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